Hakarl: A Traditional Icelandic Delicacy

Hakarl

blog authorBy Johanna Sigurðardóttir shield verificationVerified Expert

    We have many traditional dishes here in Iceland, but few have captured the imagination like our Hakarl. This delicacy has been made in Iceland for thousands of years, and because it’s so unusual, it’s often one of the first things visitors to the island want to try.

    In this article, we tell you everything you need to know about Hakarl. From what it is and how it’s made to where to find and try it. So, stick around because this traditional delicacy is one for the books.

    What is Hakarl?

    In short, Hakarl is a shark dish in Iceland that has basically reached national dish status. Our Icelandic name probably better describes it: kæstur Hakarl, which translates to fermented shark. It’s usually Greenland shark meat that’s used to make Hakarl (a shark species found in abundance in the Icelandic waters). This fermented fish in Iceland has a bit of a reputation (besides the fact that it’s a shark).

    Hakarl is known for its pungent ammonia smell, and the taste is not for everybody. The only way to find out whether this might be tantalizing to your tastebuds is to give it a try. You will also find that there are different taste strengths, just like you would get with a hot sauce. So you can opt for a milder Hakarl than the Strong Hakarl the older generation in Northwest Iceland loves.

    Hakarl is usually enjoyed with a shot of Brennivin (also referred to as Black Death), a type of liquor. Whether you down the shot in celebration or an attempt to wash away the taste or steady the nerves remains to be seen.

    Hakarl hanging at a dryhouse

    The Two Types of Hakarl

    There are essentially two types of Hakarl, distinguished by the specific part of the shark (similar to how we talk about fillet, rump, etc.). The types of Hakarl are:

    • Glerhakarl – The name translates to “Glassy Shark” and is a reddish Hakarl that comes from the belly of a shark.
    • Skyrhakarl – The name translates to “Skyr Hakarl” and is a white Hakarl that comes from the body of a shark.

    Iceland’s Fermented Shark: It’s Not Just the Smell That’s Potent

    What makes Hakarl even more interesting is that it was even made an option as a food dish in the first place! That’s because the Greenland Shark is actually poisonous. This shark species has no urinary system, so it releases urine through its bloodstream and tissue.

    But this also means the shark’s system is flooded with urea and trimethylamine Oxide. Luckily, once the shark has been processed, it is safe to consume. Still, the smell serves as a stark reminder of its urea and trimethylamine oxide past.

    How is Hakarl Made?

    The old-school traditional way of processing this Icelandic shark is to cut off the head and gut it. Then, you dig a hole in gravelly sand and place the shark inside. It is covered with gravel and sand, and then, as the proverbial cherry on top, a layer of stones is placed to ensure that a lot of weight is pressing down on the shark. This ensures that fluids are better released, ultimately shortening the fermentation process.

    Depending on the season, the shark is left in the ground for 6 to 18 weeks. This is essentially what is known as the curing period. It is also during this time that the high levels of urea and trimethylamine oxide are broken down by bacteria, which turns into ammonia. Thereafter, comes the drying period. Once the putrefied shark is dug up, it is cut into pieces and then hung up to dry.

    Hakarl being processed and dried

    This drying period can take up to 5 months, and the pieces of meat will get a type of brown crust. This crust is removed before eating. Hakarl is usually served in small cubes that one eats with a toothpick. One can actually see this process for oneself at the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum. In modern day, the process is very much the same, but with a lot less dirt (we use containers these days), and we have a little helping hand in the form of technology.

    For example, one can use temperature-controlled fermentation chambers to speed up the process. This can be very helpful when producing Hakarl on a larger scale for commercial purposes, but many Icelanders will argue that the old way gives Hakarl a superior flavor.

    Will You Enjoy Hakari?

    As a dish that has officially been named the third-worst dish in the world by Taste Atlas, it’s pretty normal to question whether you’ll enjoy Hakarl. But it’s hard to make that call beforehand. There are a few ways people say they can predict whether someone will be able to stomach our fermented shark.

    Firstly, if you’re overly sensitive to smells, Hakari will probably not be for you. Half of eating Hakarl is a mental game since the smell can be so offputting. Secondly, if you’re someone who loves aged cheeses such as Blue Cheese, Hakarl might just end up being a new favorite addition to your snack platter.

    Cubes on hakarl

    The Cultural Significance of Hakarl

    Hakarl undoubtedly plays a big part in Icelandic culture, but it has come to mean different things to different people:

    Hakarl as Food

    Hakarl didn’t start as a “strange fermented shark dish in Iceland.” Dried shark can be traced back to the Vikings. During this time, gathering food and using processes to make the food stay “fresh” for longer was a top priority. So, pickled shark was a necessary (and a very practical) staple. But Hakarl also speaks on the historic relationship existing between Icelanders and the ocean.

    Fishing has always been an integral part of Iceland, whether for survival or commercial purposes. Part of this fishing history includes hunting sharks. While it started in the 9th century already, it was particularly prevalent during the 14th century. This grew into an almost shark-hunting frenzy between the 18th and 19th centuries. Rotten seal and other meats were used as bait.

    Hakarl as Tradition

    Some Icelanders really enjoy the taste of Hakarl, or at least enjoy the nostalgia of eating it. But the perception that pickled shark is still a staple of the everyday Icelander’s diet is simply not true. Today, pickled shark is somewhat of a traditional establishment here in Iceland.

    Most of the time, it’s an homage to our heritage, a dish served at special events such as Thorrablot (our mid-winter festival) because of tradition, and something that people eat on a dare or to welcome new people to the island. The current status of shark eating is evident, with only a few small boats going out shark hunting these days.

    Hakarl with Icelandic flags on top

    Hakarl as Novelty

    There’s no doubt that Hakarl is one of the most authentic Icelandic dishes you’ll find here on the island. That’s why Hakarl has become such a novelty product for visitors to the island. In fact, not only is it somewhat of a test of strength and resolve for themselves, but it has become a favorite souvenir to take back to the folks at home.

    Where to Eat Hakarl in Iceland

    If you want to give Hakarl a try during your trip to Iceland, there are a few ways you can get some:

    Via a Tour

    A few tours in Iceland combine our cities and local attractions with local cuisine and craft beers. If you book a spot on one of these tours, such as the Reykjavik Food Walk, you’re bound to have some fun with Hakarl on the menu along the way.

    By Buying it at the Store

    You will find Hakarl at most of our bigger grocery stores. Alternatively, you can also get it at the Kolaportid Flea Market at the Old Harbor in Reykjavik, where you’ll find plenty of local produce and traditional Icelandic food.

    By Dining Out

    We have quite a few restaurants on the island that specialize in Icelandic cuisine, and where you will find Hakarl. Whenever you eat out at places such as Islenski Barinn (The Icelandic Bar), Café Loki, or The Viking Village Restaurant, you’ll be able to order Hakarl.

    Hakarl and brennivin on the table

    How Much Does Hakarl Cost?

    The price of Hakarl will heavily depend on where you’re buying it. At a local shop or market, it can cost around $16 for about 100 grams. If you’re going to eat Hakarl at a restaurant, a plate can cost you around $37. If you’re planning on tasting Hakarl on one of the food tours, you’re looking at paying about $120 per person (which obviously includes the tour and the various food stops, not just the Hakarl).

    Let Your Culinary Journey Begin!

    Hakari may not be for everyone, but there’s no way you can visit Iceland and not at least try it. It is a unique culinary experience that showcases the cultural heritage of Iceland. To discover Hakarl and other traditional Icelandic cuisine, we recommend renting a campervan in Iceland and embarking on a road trip around the island. Not only is a campervan adventure around Iceland a fun (and affordable!) way to explore the island, but it’s also a great way to immerse yourself in the local food scene. 



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